Camels and Chaos: My First Week In Crazy Cairo

On arrival in the early evening at Cairo’s international airport I beefed with the taxi drivers who told me that the metro doesn’t go to the airport.

All the info I had was that they do. I wanted to take the metro. But I saw no signs for the metro at the airport terminal.

Internet sources said a taxi would cost 8 USD from the airport. My plan was that upon arrival I would take the metro or negotiate with taxi drivers for the price between 8 and 15 USD, the latter being what the hostel had offered when I booked the room.

Once outside the terminal, tax drivers swirled like insects around me, asking where I wanted to go, offering to take me for 25 USD, asking what I wanted to pay, and scoffing at 15 USD. They stalked me like demons, badgering, pestering me from behind as I walked away, insisting that the metro didn’t come to the airport.

I was sticking to my price, however, and one driver agreed. Then he reneged. I scowled and he agreed again. We got in the car and he wanted to change the deal again. Then he pleaded with me to pay the 20 EGP for the fee to get out of the parking lot. I paid it. About a dollar and a quarter USD. (100 Egyptian pounds is about 6 U.S. dollars.)

On the way I confirmed the Metro’s reach to within walking distance of the airport and called out his and other drivers’ concerted efforts to dissuade potential taxi passengers of the existence of a fast, inexpensive train from the airport into the city, only to get their fares.

“You are all just lying to people who come to visit your country,” I said, perhaps a bit overheated from a tiring flight and pique over being played.

He smiled sheepishly, lowering his voice. “There is no money in Cairo,” he said.

Into The (No So) Fast Lane

It was my first venture into the maze of Cairo traffic. Bumper-to-bumper, four lanes wide, though “lane” appeared to be more an abstract concept than a traffic guide. All manner of vehicles danced frenetically on the nearly stalled freeway, in and out, horns blaring repeatedly as if they had meaning.

The sun had set, yet headlamps appeared optional, perhaps not functional on weary, well-worn, battered cars destined it seemed for their final resting place. I noticed at least one city bus lumbering along without headlights.

My driver finally dropped the talk about the fare, and asked to see Google Maps on my phone to find the hostel I booked, the comically named Holy Sheet Hostel in the old city district of Cairo.

Hostel Life in Old Cairo

It had been a while since I lived in a hostel. It cost less than 7 USD a night for a bottom bunk in a 10-bunk mixed (male/female) dorm, including a decent breakfast (fresh veggies, fruit, a boiled egg, bread, a cheese spread, jam, juice, coffee and tea).

With no desk and only the common room to work in, which can get loud and crowded with hostel guests, it was difficult to write and post on the blog.

But the social scene provided a different, fascinating mix of interesting, experienced, well-traveled people of many nationalities and languages to interact with, discussing all sorts of topics and sharing valuable travel information.

A young man from Russia, for example, talked of the trauma and madness enveloping in his country and of the difficulty there will be now for him to return to his family.

I’d gotten very comfortable in private Airbnb rooms I usually stayed in and this was a satisfying change of pace. Though it’s more conducive to socializing than working, and a bit disorienting at first, I soon enjoyed it and made some new friends.

I was easily the oldest guest until John, an 80-year-old American wearing a long, white caftan and sneakers, showed up. We hit it off immediately and spoke at length about our travels and being away from our home country.

Next Stop?

My next two flights are now booked: I’ll be leaving Cairo March 15 for Harare, Zimbabwe, where I will be visiting a friend, Bigboy Musemwa, who I met through the Grassroots Coalition for Environmental and Economic Justice a few years ago. “Biggie” is developing a community permaculture farm, a project that I’ve supported for some time and I’m looking forward to seeing it. I’m also planning to see Victoria Falls, one of the world’s natural wonders, on the Zambesi River, which is the border between Zimbabwe and neighboring Zambia.

On March 30, I’m flying to Delhi, India, where I’m meeting up with a friend I met in Georgia. I’m trying to get a long-term business visa as a website development consultant, which would allow me a much longer stay in India than a regular tourist visa would.

More To Come …

I have much more to show and tell about my experience in Egypt, but I’m going to send it all in installments. So expect the next installment from the Land of the Pharoahs in a day or two.